Gion (祇園) is the most famous geisha district in Japan. In this part of old Kyoto, narrow lanes run between wooden townhouses lit by lanterns. If you are lucky and patient, you may see a maiko with a white-painted face hurry to an evening appointment. No other place sums up the image of traditional Kyoto so well. Gion is refined and discreet, and much of it stays hidden behind sliding doors.
A district of the flower-and-willow world
Gion grew up in front of Yasaka Shrine. It began as a group of teahouses for pilgrims and travellers. During the Edo period (1603–1868), when the shoguns ruled Japan, it became a hanamachi (花街), or "flower town." This was one of the licensed districts where geisha and their apprentices, the maiko, entertained guests with music, dance, conversation and games. In Kyoto, people call geisha geiko. People call their world karyūkai, the "flower and willow world." It is a closed society of teahouses (ochaya), loyal patrons and years of training. Gion's wooden fronts, hanging lanterns and lattice windows rank among the most photographed streets in Japan. Hanamikōji Street and the small canal area of Shirakawa draw the biggest crowds.
Visiting with care
Gion is a living neighbourhood, not a theme park, and its fame has caused friction. For years, tourists chased maiko and blocked their way to get photos. In response, some private lanes have closed to visitors, and signs now warn of fines for photography. There are respectful ways to see a geiko or maiko perform. You can attend a public dance, above all the Miyako Odori, the spring dances in Gion every April. You can also book a proper teahouse evening. Just don't ambush a working performer on her way to an appointment.
Words & idioms to take away
Idioms & proverbs to carry away
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花街 (hanamachi or kagai): literally "flower town," the traditional geisha districts. Gion is the most famous of them.
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舞妓 vs 芸妓 (maiko vs geiko): in Kyoto, a maiko is a teenage apprentice with elaborate hair and a long-sleeved kimono. A geiko is a fully trained artist. Elsewhere in Japan, people use the broader word geisha.